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Bourdain on Butter

From Anthony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential:

Butter. I don’t care what they tell you they’re putting or not putting in your food at your favorite
restaurant, chances are, you’re eating a ton of butter. In a professional kitchen, it’s almost
always the first and last thing in the pan. We sauté in a mixture of butter and oil for that nice
brown, caramelized color, and we finish nearly every sauce with it (we call this monter au
beurre); that’s why my sauce tastes richer and creamier and mellower than yours, why it’s got
that nice, thick, opaque consistency. Believe me, there’s a big crock of softened butter on
almost every cook’s station, and it’s getting a heavy workout. Margarine? That’s not food. I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter? I can. If you’re planning on using margarine in anything, you can stop reading now, because I won’t be able to help you.

Comments

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Ralph Noble

I once had the opportunity, courtesy of a good friend, to watch a chef cook in a French restaurant; yes, lots of butter, but also salt, too, pinched out of a crock and dispersed with abandon.

Johannes

What he said! Butter rules!

What's even better, I think that, like eggs, butter has been mostly rehabilitated by nutritionists.
Too much fat may make you fat and unhealthy, but butter is not particularly bad and there is no reason to use half-fat margarine with additives when you can enjoy the taste of butter. Better eat a little less than less well!

hans

This is actually one of the few things I remember from reading the book long time ago. As far as I recall he also made fun of the whole "extra virgin olive oil cold pressed blabla" in italian restaurants, where in reality they also use mainly butter instead of olive oil.

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